As always, I stayed at my family’s summer home in Halkidiki (near Thessaloniki) where I swim twice a day, tan until I resemble a gypsy, spend time with my parents, relatives and friends I’ve known since the 80′s! There were the day trips to Thessaloniki, some trips to more exotic beaches in Halkdiki and taverna-hopping at night.

Lefkada

I traveled to the island of Lefkada for the first time – an island that doesn’t require a ferry boat to travel to – just a causeway that connects it to the mainland. Lefkada is an island rife with greenery, olives trees. One side of the island is relatively flat and most of the hotels are located facing mainland Greece and the center of the island is mountainous. A car is needed on Lefkada as most of the island’s popular and beautiful beaches are included on the side of the island facing Italy ( on the Ionian Sea). Some of Greece’s best beaches are on Lefkada and Egremni and Porto Katsiki often get mentioned in “best beaches” lists.

Porto Katsiki, Lefkada

I also attended a Greek wedding (yes it was BIG and FAT) and even reconnected with a former Greek amabassador to Canada who now spends his retirement in a nearby town in Halkidiki. While in Halkidiki I also traveled to the third peninsula to explore and taste the underappreciated Mount Athos area. Most of the third peninsula is enclosed by a border and home to several Greek-Orthodox monasteries. One can only travel to Ouranoupoli and from there one must enter only if carrying a visa (pre-arranged) into Agio Oros…the name for the entire territory governed by monks and clergy. Sorry, no women are allowed on Agio Oros but crusies are available from Ouranoupoli that tour along the coast.

My weekend in the Athos area was spent in Arnaia with it’s well-preserved old architecture, a couple of wineries, a Feta cheese facility, the tiny islet of Amouliani and to visit a lady who “opens” her own phyllo and made two delicious phyllo pies right before our eyes!

I also wanted to visit Constantinople (Istanbul) once again this year but days were running out and schedules with my travel partner and friend made this an impossibility this year (there’s always next year). Instead, I took the advice of friends to head towards the Greek/Turkish border to visit the city of Xanthi. I went during the city’s Old City Festival to revel with others in this picturesque old town with both Greeks and Muslim minority living side by side peacefully. Xanthi is known for its extraordinary desserts and exotic dishes with a near-east flare. Xanthi’s “pazari” is Greece’s largest and I was fortunate to shop there on the Saturday morning I was there.

Upon my return to our summer home in Halkidiki (where our Greek home is) I was hoping for some milder daytime temps to arrive but not to be so. This September was one of the hottest I remember with the thermometer hitting 36C – more beach action! September is a wonderful month to visit Greece and airfares have dropped, the summer crowds have left and the days are sill hot for a pleasant swim in the sea followed by comfortable warm evenings taking a stroll and dining outdoors at a taverna.

I spent some days (and nights) exploring more of my favourite city in Greece – Thessaloniki. Thessaloniki iss Greece’s 2nd largest city and Greek’s often call it the “co-capital” alongside Athens. Thessaloniki’s history sees many people come and go: Turks, Romans, Byzantines, Slavs. The city was also home to a significant Jewish population and one can even visit a museum dedicated to this important facet of Thessaloniiki.

White Tower, Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki is one Europe’s oldest cities and it’s also considered one of the earliest examples of a multicultural city. Today, the majority of Thessaloniki’s population in Greek but the population is made up of natives of the province of Macedonia, Vlachs, Asian Minor Greeks forced to leave Turkey in a series of population exchanges and Pontian Greeks who (not to be confused with Asia Minor Greeks) came back to resettle in Greece after many generations of living around the Black Sea.

The Pontian Greeks have their own dialect, they are a tight-knit community and they have there very own unique cuisine. Pontian Greeks can be found in Athens as well but the majority live in Thessaloniki and towns in Macedonia and Thrace. Some Greek towns and villages were born with the influx of Pontian Greeks who came to resettle on the Greek mainland.

Back in Xanthi, my friend (and chef) Stella Spanou was kind enough to show around the area and on one afternoon I spent at a “Ksenona” or rural hostel just outside of Xanthi. Situated in an old abandoned Turkish village was this family-run type of “bed & breakfast” by a family of Pontian roots. Stella and Eleni prepared dinner, we ate and drank and delightfully (first time in awhile) did not speak of or discuss the Greek economy. We spoke about the wine harvest that I just witness, the region of Xanthi and the delicious food before us. Two of Eleni’s brothers took turns playing the Pontiako Lyra (a kind of viol) played upright and help between one’s thighs after our meal. It was a moving moment with their father keeping rhythm by clapping and everyone reflecting on how wonderful a day we just had.

View from rural hostel near Xanthi

One of the dishes at the table was of Pontian origin and I’m going to share that dish with you in the coming days but in the meantime, I thought to share another Pontian dish, a sweet one that embodies my sweet Greek vacation and all the memories of the wonderful food enjoyed with old friends and new. We’re now into Autumn and many of this summer’s fruits are a memory and we await for the long winter to pass and another cycle of Spring and Summer will warm our souls and fill us with more memories.

The Pontians have a dish called Hosafi which is a compote made of mixed dried fruit and often some nuts are included in the mix. The ladies of the household with gather fruit as they came into season and dried them for consumption in the winter. Turning dried fruits into a compote is simple genius born out of necessity and ideal as a Lent-friend dessert. I couldn’t think of a more ideal recipe to offer than one with fruits preserved from the warm months and used to tide us through the winter. A compote is usually made with fresh, ripe fruit and preserved in a syrup but here, the main ingredients are dried fruit.

The dried fruits are re-hydrated in warm water then simmered in a simple syrup of water and sugar and spices of your choice. I decided to go with star anise, reminiscent of a compote I ate earlier in my vacation while on Lefkada. This is a really easy recipe using dried figs, apricots, prunes, raisins and almonds. There’s water, there’s sugar and star anise and what the heck…some Greek honey to add some richness to the syrup.

Hosafi is wonderful served on some strained Greek yogurt or ice cream or simply on its own. I make a small batch as we’re using dried fruits which are available all year ’round – no need to make large batches here. Make a batch, store in a container and keep in your fridge.

Hosafi (Χοσάφι)  – Compote of Dried Fruit

(makes enough to fill 2 large jars)

1/2 cup of dried apricots

1/2 cup dried figs

1/4 cup sultana raisins

1/4 cup dark raisins

1/2 cup pitted prunes

1/2 cup almonds

water

approx. 1 cup sugar

3-4 whole star anise

1/4 cup Greek honey

1. Place all the dried fruit in a bowl and cover with hot water. Place a cover on the bowl and allow the fruit to rehydrate for about an hour. Pour the water and dried fruit into a medium-sized pot and if need be, add more water ( to cover by an inch). Add the sugar and star anise and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally.
2. Once almost aboil, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for an hour. Add the honey, stir in and take off the heat and allow to cool. You maty add the almonds while the compote is still warm.
3. Pour the compote into a jar/glass container and keep in your fridge for up to 3 months. Serve on some strained Greek yogurt or ice cream.

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After sitting down for a coffee and getting settled into our seats, I noticed one of the gals behind the counter piping some creme patisserie onto layers of puff pastry. As it turns out, she’s also been to Toronto and stayed at her uncle’s place. Her uncle is someone I know in Toronto. BINGO! Another connection in Thessaloniki.

Thessaloniki is littered with cafe’s and shops where one can stop in for a brief drink, snack or both or simply grab something to take with you on the go. Yesterday I had the good fortune to enjoy a coffee at the Paradosiako deli in Thessaloniki’s shopping district, just south of Tsimiski. In Greek “Paradosiako” means traditional and although the shop(s) are new there’s an eye towards tradition and making things from scratch like their coffees, sandwiches, tarts and other desserts. Next time I’m going to try out their Mille Feuille and their yummy croissants are some of the best I’ve seen in the city!

This central location of Paradosiako is great for people watching, friendly and attentive service and in case you’re not in the center of the city, there are a few other Paradosiako stores out there.

enjoy this slide show I’ve prepared for you and i’m sure this will give you yet one more reason to visit Thessaloniki!

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I’ve already shown you Kourabiedes and now you get to see the other standard offering, Melomakarona. I’m sure you can read the ingredients list but here are the flavour tags for this simple cookie…orange, walnut, honey, clove, cinnamon….a party in the mouth!

Melomakarona (μελομακάρονα)

recipe update from December 2007
(makes about 40)

For the syrup

3 1/2 cups sugar

4 cups water

1 cup honey

1 cinnamon stick

2 wide strips of orange peel

For the dough

6 -6 1/2 cups pastry flour

1 1/2 fine semolina flour

1 cup olive oil

1 stick of unsalted butter, room temperature

1/2 cup brandy (Metaxa)

2 Tbsp. honey

1/2 cup sugar

1 1/2 cups orange juice

zest of 1 orange (1 Tbsp)

4 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 tsp. ground clove

1/2 tsp. baking soda

3 tsp. baking powder

Ground walnut topping

1 1/2 cups walnuts (roughly pounded)

1/3 cup brown sugar

2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2 ground clove

Pre-heated 350F oven

1. You should make your syrup first. To a pot add your sugar, water, honey, orange peel and cinnamon stick and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes and then remove from the heat and allow to cool (success of recipe hinges on cool syrup and hot cookies).
2. Into a large bowl, add the sugar, oil, room temp. and butter, blend with your hand mixer for 5 minutes and then add your cinnamon and clove and mix in as well. Dissolve your baking soda, cinnamon, cloves, orange zest and orange juice and honey into your brandy and pour into the bowl.
3. Now add the baking powder and semolina flour into the bowl and mix with your hands. Add the pastry flour in, one cup at a time and knead in with your hands until you’ve achieved a soft, pliable dough that’s not sticky. Allow the dough to rest covered for 30 minutes.
4. Using your hands, roll the dough into small balls (about the size of walnuts), then form them into oval/quenelle shaped shaped cookies.
5. Take your box grater (the side used to zest) and place a cookie on top of it. Press the cookie down a bit to form a grid pattern on the top of the cookie. Repeat this process for all the cookies.
6. Place your cookies on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Bake in a pre-heated oven (middle rack) for 30 minutes. Using a large slotted spoon or Spider, drop the hot cookies in batches into the cold syrup for 3 minutes to absorb the syrup. Reserve on a cooling rack and repeat until all the cookies are dunked in syrup.
7. For the topping, add the above ingredients in a bowl mix well with a spoon. Brush each cookie with the remaining syrup and then sprinkle each cookie top with the walnut topping. Allow to cool.
8. Store in a cool, dry container for up to a month.

Got leftover Melomakarona? Try this Cheesecake with Melomakarona crust!

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These cookies are fantastically simple in ingredients, not too difficult and I don’t think I’ve met one person that doesn’t like them. What’s not to like about butter, roasted almonds and icing sugar?

Kourabiedes (κουραμπιέδες)
(recipe is for 2 baking trays/80 cookies)

1 lb. unsalted butter, clarified* and room temperature
1 cup icing sugar
2 egg yolks
3/4 cup vegetable oil
2 cups of roasted almonds, coarsely chopped
1 shot of brandy
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 heaping Tbsp. of baking powder
5 cups of of all purpose flour, sifted
Extra icing sugar for powdering (about 2 cups)

1. Using a mixer and a large bowl, cream your butter, oil and sugar. Add the egg yolks and continue to mix.
2. Add your brandy to a large glass and then add your baking powder and stir it until dissolved. Now pour this mixture, along with the vanilla extract and continue mixing until blended in.
3. Start kneading with hands the mixture and s-l-o-w-l-y add the flour to the mixture until all the flour has been absorbed. Add the almonds and knead them into the dough mixture.
4. Using your hand, grab a piece of dough the size of a walnut and form them into the shape of choice  crescents or patties). Place each formed cookie on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Repeat process until all dough has been shaped into cookies.
5. Bake in a pre-heated 350F oven (middle rack) for 25 minutes for each batch. Allow the cookies to cool until you are able  to handle ((on the tray is fine).
6. Place about 2 cups of icing sugar in a large bowl and place  the a cookie in the sugar and cover to coat. Place in your serving platter and repeat with the remaining cookies. Now place some more icing sugar in a sifter and generously dust the Kourabiedes with more icing sugar until well-coated.
7. The cookies can be stored in a sealed container, in a cool, dry place and they’ll keep for 3 months.*Clarify the butter by melting it over medium heat then remove from heat and allow to cool in the fridge until solid. Now poke a hole into the solid butter and carefully pour out the water that’s underneath. What you have left is clarified butter (you may also use/buy ghee).

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Last year I was given this handmade, crocheted Greek flag winter hat from Sophia (blogger, mommy and wife). I’m ready for the Canadian winter with my Greek hat. Are you ready for winter? I know you want to order one of these hats now!

If there’s one think I like doing with family & friends is watching some movies during the cold winter nights. My picks are the Italian-made Mediterraneo and Politiki Kouzina (Touch of Spice was chosen as the English title). Mediterraneo won an Oscar in 1991 for best foreign film and it’s a story of an Italian army company stationed and then stranded on the Greek island of Kastellorizo. The movie is subtitled but the Italian knack for humour combined with sentiment doesn’t get lost in translation.

A Touch of Spice is another DVD in my personal collection. The movie centers around a boy and his family who fled their beloved home in Constantinople (Istanbul) to begin a new life in Athens with the sentiment of being foreigners in their own land. Food and family figures big in this movie, the soundtrack is top-notch and Greeks and non-Greeks alike will get a sense of how important “politki kouzina” (the cuisine of Constantinople) figures in Greek cookery.

While we’re on the subject of spices, let’s talk about Mastiha for a bit. Artemis and Kalliope of the mastihashop in NYC were kind enough to create some gift packages ideal for the readers of this site. Mastiha is a natural tree resin called the pistacia lentiscus var Chia tree. The resin is harvested from the trees that only grow on the southern part of the island of Chios. Greeks use this unique spice in breads, Tsoureki (Greek Easter Bread), desserts and in many creative savory dishes.

The mastihashop NY is offering The Mastiha “Gourmet” Gift of three sauces/spreads, all with a Mastiha accent for $42.50.

If you’re more adventurous in the kitchen and you want to create your own dishes with Mastiha in them, you can choose the gift box (ask for THE PURIST) with the mastiha large “tears”, mastiha cooking powder and the medium mastiha “tears” (along with a recipe book) for $46.75.

This custom basket (THE CUSTOM BASKET) is yours for $117.25 and it includes mastiha tears, sea salt, pasta, wafer treats, spoons sweets, Loukoumia, and Mastiha gums.

Finally, mastihashop New York also has a gift box with some aromatic soaps for $33.25.

You can also scan the other mail-order items the mastihashop will ship to you or accommodate your own combination as a gift box or basket. All orders can be placed by contacting the mastihashop here.

During a recent visit to Toronto’s Greektown on the Danforth, I discovered that Leonidas chocolatier will be opening soon at the corner of Danforth & Logan. Almost everyone loves chocolate and since it’s Christmas, why not splurge on the finest Belgian chocolates from Leonidas?

I’ve recently being enjoying my very own Greek coffee renaissance, that is to say sipping more Greek coffee rather than the usual percolated stuff. Why not buy a set of Greek coffee cups for a faovourite aunt, sister or niece or nephew that may be homesick?

We shouldn’t forget that Christmas is also of religious importance. Greek families will go to church and our parish also has a choir that lifts the spirits of the parishioners with hymns and carols. Those who are Greek (or those who have Greek friends) will know that icons adorn the walls of most Greek homes. Why not give the gift of a religious icon?

I don’t know about you but by the time Christmas arrives, I’m burnt-out by the repetitive playing of Christmas carols starting with the shopping mall Muzak that began playing “Silver Bells” from late October! In our home and when I visit Greek friends & relatives we’ll be playing the Greek tunes. Internationally adorned recording artist George Dalaras is a fave of mine and if one were to attend one of his concerts, you may see three generations of Greeks in the audience. Why not buy Dalaras’ latest CD?

It’s time for some cookbook recommendations. The first cookbook is “Around the Greek Table”, written by the “Three Greek Sisters”, Betty, Eleni and Samantha. These gals share a mix of their family’s cherished home dishes and some modern takes on Greek classics with mouth-watering photos, easy to follow recipes that work and the cookbook is suitable for the Greek looking to make mom’s dishes or for the person looking for an intro to Greek cookery. “Around the Greek Table” is now in it’s second print and the Sisters continue to visit bookstores for book-signings and conduct cooking demos on TV. You can also buy the book from Greek City Video.The second cookbook I am recommending comes from none other than “kuria” Vefa Alexiadou, the Julia Child of Greek cuisine. Last year Vefa released “Vefa’s Kitchen”, a large cookbook that’s a ‘best of’ containing recipes from the several cookbooks Vefa wrote mostly in the Greek language, This cookbook touches upon dishes from all regions of Greece and recipes ranges from salads to soups, meat and fish, the many vegetarian offerings in Greek cookery, savory pies, sweets, cakes and breads. This IS the Greek Cooking bible.

A couple of years ago I visited the isalnd of Sifnos, located in the western Cyclades. Sifnos is the birthplace of Nikos Tselementes (like a Greek James Beard) and the island is also know for it’s hand-crafted pottery and stoneware. Why not splurge and buy a loved one a hand-crafted and painted item, shipped to you directly from Sifnos?The Karamaniakis family proudly shares green gold from their family’s olive groves in the Peloponesse in Greece. Olive oil is an integral part of Greek cuisine and I can’t imagine cooking without it. The Karamaniakis family is offering Christmas gift packs featuring the Twisted Pit series of naturally flavoured oils. There’s “rosemary, ginger, orange”, “wild oregano, pepper and lemon”, “mountain herbs, chilli & lime” and finally, “basil, roasted garlic & grapefruit”.

For those more traditional, the Karamaniakis family also is offering Christmas gift offerings of their Artemis extra-virgin olive oil, limited edition bottles with extra-virgin olive oil from the family’s Peloponnese olive groves. Order both at Www.twistedpit.com/giftcatalogue2010.PDF

My friends at Christos Marketplace have been in business selling Greek goods at their Boston store for two generations and they recently have expanded to offer internet sales. Besides their mail-order Greek Feta (other cheeses) service (US only), they are sending out two varying Gift Baskets loaded with an array of Greek goodies. Send a loved one one of these sampler baskets with Greek coffee, honey and olives.My friends Artemis and Kalliopi from the Mastiha Shop in New York have created two gift baskets for the Christmas holidays.

Finally, I recently went down to Toronto’s trendy Queen West area to visit my friend Louis at Nikolaou Restaurant Supply. Louis always likes to show me the neat stuff in his store and when he pulled out the Atlas Pepper Mill from Greece, I instantly fell in love with them and ordered in! The pepper mills are made of brass, made in Greece and they will last a lifetime! Those in Toronto can head down to Nikoalou or order the Atlas Pepper Mill on-line.

Order early to avoid disappointent/late deliveries and ALWAYS ask if any of the above companies can guarantee delivery of your order by Christmas.

Wishing you all a Merry Christmas, a healthy and prosperous New Year. Don’t drink and drive, think about those who have less, make a donation to your local Food Bank or charity and invite a friend or relative that you haven’t seen in awhile over to your place. I’ll be sharing lots of festive recipes in the coming days…stay tuned!

If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at  http://kalofagas.ca then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.

© 2007-2010 Peter Minakis

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© 2010, Peter Minakis. All rights reserved. If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.ca then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.