One couple that stood out was Su and Gokhan, ever-smiling and promoting their Zei olive oil from the Aegean coast of Turkey (just across from Mytilini). The olive oil was being well-received but the stand-out products were in these jars and samples were being given out on these small spoons. No, they weren’t giving out caviar but samples of hazelnut, almond and pistachio spreads. All three are sweet but the pistachio paste is the front-runner with its bright green colour, natural sweetness and honey.

A few weeks later I finally caught-up again with Su and Gokhan where we discussed Turkey and Greece, our love of the two countries, the similarity and uniqueness of each cuisine and ultimately the pistachio spread and how to showcase/feature it. I was given some samples and off I went to create a dish that would draw attention that this product merited.

Here in Toronto, you can find pistachio spread at McEwan’s, Alex Farms (2594 Yonge north of Eglintion), Cheese Boutique, Mercantile on Roncesvalles, Geri’s Eatin’ Centre, Market Fresh in Guelph and Vincenzo’s in Kitchener.

There’s some prep involved with making this light dessert which used layers of phyllo pastry to make up the three layers of this dessert with the pistachio spread, some raspberries and Creme Anglaise. I had some leftover phyllo and rather than throw it out, I used in lieu of opening a package of puff pastry (which you may still do)! Creme Anglaise is basically a saucier egg custard that can be used to top a pound cakes, some berries or a steamed pudding. For those that like to have dessert out of the way, you should prep this dessert the day before and simply assemble come dessert time.

The soft crunch of phyllo, rich and nutty pistachio spread, tart raspberries and velvet Creme Anglaise all play with your taste buds…dance on the tongue!

Mille Feuille With Pistachio Paste & Creme Anglaise

(makes 6)

8 sheets of phyllo, thawed overnight in the fridge

1/2 cup melted butter

1/4 cup sugar

Creme Anglaise

2 cups of half & half cream

2 tsp. of pure vanilla extract

1/3 cup sugar

5 large egg yolks

1-180 gr. jar of pistachio spread

2 pints of raspberries

1. Allow the phyllo 15 minutes to come to room temperature. Place a sheet of phyllo on your work surface and brush with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar. Repeat with 3 more sheets of phyllo then cut into 9 equal squares. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and then place another sheet of parchment and lay another baking tray on top to weigh down. Place in your pre-heated 325F oven for approx. 15 minutes or until golden. Carefully remove the phyllo squares and allow to cool.
2. Repeat above procedure to make the second batch of phyllo squares.
3. To make your crème anglaise, add your cream into a medium pot and bring to just scalding over medium heat. In the medium, add the egg yolks and sugar in a large bowl and whisk until thoroughly creamed. As soon as the milk comes to the scalding stage, add the vanilla and take off the heat. While whisking the creamed eggs and sugar, slowly add the hot cream then pour everything back in the pot and simmer while stirring over medium heat until the crème anglaise just coats a spoon.
4. Remove from the heat, pour through a strainer (along with any settled cream on the bottom) and place in a bowl with plastic film covering it. Refrigerate overnight to set and thicken.
5. To assemble, place a spoon of crème anglaise on each plate to secure the bottom layer of phyllo then place the first layer of phyllo followed by some berries then some crème anglaise. Repeat for a total of 3 layers topped with berries, crème anglaise and a sprig of mint for garnish and sprinkle ground pistachios on top and around the plate.

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This dessert is inspired by the Lemon Phyllo Tarts I had last year when I visited Toronto’s Malena to check out their new Spring Menu. The tarts arrived as part of a trio of desserts that were kissed by the Mediterranean spirit and influences of Italy and Greece. These tarts are simply some phyllo pastry placed into a muffin tin (baked) then filled with a lemon curd and finished with a meringue. Lemon Meringue Pie in phyllo.

As a Greek, we always have commercial phyllo in the freezer and all one has to do is thaw it overnight in your fridge before using. The idea to try my hand at lemon meringue phyllo tarts came to me on New Year’s Eve, upon seeing that we had lots of leftover sweets and thinking that another big dessert production was unnecessary. One could make as much or as little as they want (2 to 12), they are easy to make and just three movements to the recipe.

baked phyllo cups

With the phyllo thawing in the fridge, the first step would be to make a lemon filling: I go to trusted sources and Paula’s recipe for lemon curd at Dragon’s Kitchen was easy, delicious and perfect for these lemon phyllo tarts. The pyllo cups and lemon curd can be made a day or two before and the meringue can be whipped the day of serving.

These tarts were refreshing with just enough lemon to pucker your mouth yet balanced with sweetness. Texture-wise you have the creamy lemon curd juxtaposed with the crunch of the phyllo pastry and then there’s the light bruleed meringue on top that rounds out the flavours with a hint of burnt flavour.

Commercial phyllo is available at Greek, Middle-eastern shops and now found at most supermarkets, the lemon curd is something easily made in your kitchen and lemons are in season – don’t used that bottled stuff! The meringues can be finished with a kitchen torch or using the broiler feature of your oven. A delicious, light dessert option that kids and adults alike with adore.

Lemon Meringue Phyllo Tarts

For the Lemon Curd

6 egg yolks
2/3 cup sugar
Pinch of salt
1/3 cup of fresh lemon juice
Splash of Limoncello (optional)
Zest of 1/2 of lemon
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold & cut into cubes

For the Phyllo Cups

4 sheets of phyllo pastry (thawed overnight in your fridge)

1/2 stick melted butter

sugar

1/2 cup ground almonds

1 muffin tin

For the Meringue

4-5 large egg whites

1/4 cup icing sugar

3/4 tsp. cream of tartar

1. Prepare an ice water bath for the finished curd and set aside. Add an inch of water to a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over low heat. In a medium metal bowl whisk the egg yolks and sugar until smooth. Whisk in salt, lemon juice, Limoncello and lemon zest. Add the cold butter cubes. Place bowl over the pan of simmering water and cook, whisking frequently until the butter is incorporated and the curd is thick; about 15 minutes.
2. Transfer the bowl to the ice water bath and leave it to cool, stirring occasionally. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the cooled lemon curd and transfer the bowl to the refrigerator until it’s completely cold (about 4 hours or overnight).
3. Paint the insides of the muffin moulds with melted butter and pre-heat your oven to 325F. Lay a sheet of phyllo on work surface then brush with butter than sprinkle sugar and ground almonds. Repeat with the next two sheets of phyllo and simply brush the fourth sheet with butter.
4. Now measure and cut the phyllo into 4″ x 4″ squares and press each into the muffin moulds and bake on the center rack for 10-12 minutes or just until golden. Allow to cool for 5 minutes then remove the phyllo cups from the pan.
5. Carefully separate your egg whites and place in a clean bowl and add the icing sugar and cream of tartar and whisk until dissolved then beat with an electric mixer until still peaks have formed.
6. Take the lemon curd out of your fridge and spoon equal amounts into each phyllo cup then either place the meringue in a piping bag and top each tart or simply spoon it on top.
7. Use a kitchen torch to brulee your meringues or place the phyllo tarts on a baking tray and place on the middle rack and broil until just browned. Serve immediately or place in the fridge until ready to serve then return to room temperature before serving.

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What’s sets these apart from other “stuffed figs” is the outer layer, made from water, sugar, ground star anise, cocoa powder, semolina flour, tea biscuits and ground walnuts. This mixture is thick, a little sticky but it’s the “somethin-somethin” that makes these sublime. Aristotle wrote, “the whole is greater than the sum of its parts” and this was true when making these.

Walnuts are good for you, a healthy snack and sure…taste good. Figs are even tastier, fresh or dried and yes…perhaps even an aphrodisiac. The semolina, tea biscuit, ground star anise and walnut mixture tasted okay and while I was chilling it to firm-up, I was concerned this recipe would be mediocre. That all changed when I assembled the stuffed figs, froze them and carefully sliced them in half to reveal the pretty cross-section of the walnut, fig and biscuit/walnut mixture.

Although the figs are the star of this recipe, walnuts are found in three stages: once stuffed inside the fig, a second time ground in the paste with the semolina and tea biscuits and one more time as the balls of stuffed figs are rolled in (you guessed it) ground walnuts before being complete. Other than placing these in the freezer to set overnight, this is an easy recipe and once you’re going to make over and over. I know I will!

Sublime, Sexy Walnut-Stuffed Figs (Σύκα Γεμιστά με Καρύδια)

approx. 20 dried Greek figs

20 walnut halves

1 cup water

3/4 cup sugar

1 tsp. ground star anise (using Ouzo or anise flavoured alcohol will soften the mixture, making it harder to handle)

1/3 cup fine semolina flour

2 Tbsp. cocoa powder

1/3 cup ground Petit Beurre tea biscuits

1 1/4 cup ground walnuts

approx. 3/4- 1 cup of ground walnuts for coating

1. Place a medium-sized pot on your stovetop with the water and sugar and bring to a boil then add the ground star anise and semolina and take off the heat and stir for for a minute then add the ground tea biscuits and walnuts and stir-in. Allow the mixture to cool and place in the fridge for two hours.
2. In the meantime, snip the stems off your figs (discard) and gently open the top of each fig with your finger and then squeeze a wlabut half in each fig.
3. When the ground walnut/bicsuit mixture has cooled (hardened), grease one hand with vegetable oil and place a heaping tablespoon of the mixture (yes it is a little sticky) in one hand and flatten it then place a fig in your palm and enclose it with the mixture in the form of a ball. Now roll each ball in the reserved ground walnuts and place on a large plate/platter.
4. Cover and place in the freezer overnight or until ready to serve. To serve, remove from the freezer and carefully slice each stuffed fig in half and place in decorative paper cups and serve.

* You may cover and refreeze any leftover stuffed figs but I doubt they will last long.

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Much like a carrot cake or zucchini bread the beets are grated and mix into the batter raw – NOT boiled or cooked in any other way. There’s plenty of time for the beets to cook in the batter and did I mention the inside of the bread looks fantastic with the red beats speckles? (Yeah I did)

The most important steps to making Beet & Walnut muffins (yes they are sweet) or cake is tossing both the walnuts and grated beets in some flour. The is process is important because you’ll help your walnuts from sinking to the bottom of the loaf while baking and the beets will not bleed to the point of making your cake turn all red. Bottom line: mix your grated beets with some flour and mix into the batter just before pouring the batter into a muffin tin or loaf pan.

I opted to make muffins this time as I gave these to the hostess who had me over for a luncheon/tea this afternoon and there was no way I was going to give her a cake that was missing a slice or risk giving someone an insipid cake. Muffins it was, I tasted a couple, took some quick snaps and I have wonderful, quirky and sneaky way to have your kids eat vegetables…in cake or muffin form. Oh, beets are in season…enjoy!

Beet & Walnut Muffins

(makes 12 muffins or 1 loaf)

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 level Tbsp. of baking powder

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 tsp. salt

2 tsp. ground cinnamon

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup milk

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cups grated beets (raw)

3/4 cup chopped walnuts

extra flour for dredging beets and walnuts

pre-heated 375F oven

1. In one bowl, add your dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, cinnamon and mix with a fork. In another bowl, lightly beat your eggs, milk and oil and set aside. Pre-heat your oven to 375F, middle rack.
2. Chop your walnuts and add enough flour (approx. 1 Tbsp.) to coat the nuts, toss well. Peel your raw beet and pass through the side of your box grater with large holes. You should have approx. 2 cups loosely filled. Add flour while mixing with a fork until the grated beets appear a light pink (almost dry) in colour. Set aside.
3. Add the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and mix quickly with a spoon. Add add the walnuts and mix in. Finally, add the grated beets into the dough mixture.
4. Grease your muffin tins or place the paper muffin cups into the pan and spoon in or use an ice cream scooper to insert the dough into each muffin mold. Place in your pre-heated oven for 20 minutes (stick a toothpick into a muffin to check for doneness  – no dough should stick to it).
5. Remove the muffins from the oven and carefully remove them from the tin and allow to slightly cool on a rack. Serve warm or room temperature.

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A festival in Greece may go from one day to a week and since there’s such a large gathering of people, the by-product of a flea market, farmer’s market, rows and rows of stalls with people selling their wares and where there are people – there’s food. Lots of food! Food trucks set up at the Panigyria, restauranteurs rent kiosks and stalls to sell souvlaki, Gyro or whole lamb or pig on the spit, sandwiches, snacks and many types of desserts, sweets and confectionery are offered to lure the adult and child alike.

Halvas Farsalon from a Panigyri

my Halvas Farsalon

One of the treats offered at festivals is called Halvas Farsalon (not to be mixe-up with the other better know halvas). Many of you are familar with the semolina halva and there’s also the “Makedonikos Halvas”, a name given to the halva made traditionally with sesame paste and honey. Halva Farsalon comes from central Greece and originally from the town of Farsala…and this halva is the hallmark of this town. Halvas Farsalon is unique in that it’s made with corn starch (not semolina) and the consistency is of a jelly with a buttery caramel flavour.

Halvas Farsalon is made as such: sugar is added into large rounded pots (with heavy bottoms) over moderate heat with the purpose of forming a deep copper-coloured caramel. Waiting in the wings is a mixture of more sugar, corn starch and water that’s added into the pot as soon as the caramel has formed in the pot. Constant stirring then ensues and slowly the caramel melts away into the corn starch then the liquid begins to thicken and that caramel that you watched over with patience has come back to life and a dense, transparent caramel jelly has formed. At this point toasted almonds are added along with melted clarified butter (in increments) while stirring some more.

As soon as the butter has been absorbed and the halva no longer sticks to the sides, the treat is almost complete. The halva is left in the pot for a few moments to allow a crust to form on the bottom. Then, the halva is flipped/inverted so that the caramel-crusted bottom is on top and now the Halvas Farsalon is emptied onto a large round tray and allowed to cool. A sprinkle of cinnamon tops the Halvas Farsalon and it ready to be eaten – room temperature or chilled in the fridge.

This is very easy to dish to prepare at home until you get to the stage of creating that crust on top. One needs one of the large pots as shown in the above video and some practice flipping this large portion of Halva. At home, you have options: simply skip making the crust or be creative and use another method to make the crust. For me, the crust is a ‘must”. Once the Halva has cooled completely, you can sprinkle some sugar on top and either torch or brulee the top or place under your broiler in the oven until just brown on top. There’s another method to create that caramel top and you’ll find my suggestion at the end of this recipe!

Halvas Farsalon (Χαλβάς Φαρσάλων)

an 11-inch round metal pan (2 inched deep)

3 cups sugar

2 cups corn starch

1 tsp. vanilla extract

2/3 cup melted clarified butter (unsalted)

1/2 cup blanched almonds, halved and lightly toasted

ground cinnamon for finishing

Caramel Crust

1/2 cup sugar

1/8 tsp. cream of tartar

2-3 Tbsp. water

1. Mix 2 cups of sugar with cornstarch and vanilla and pour in 5 cups of water and mix until blended.
2. Add remaining 1 cup sugar into heavy-bottomed pot and stir continuously until a dark gold/copper colour is attained. Remove from the heat and pour the corn starch/sugar/water slurry into the pan.
3. Return to stovetop and stir over medium heat until mixture is thick and comes away from sides of pan.
4. Add almonds and some of the butter and stir and then add the rest of the butter (stirring) until once again absorbed. Empty the Halvas into the pan and level the top with wooden spoon. Allow to cool completely.
5. Once  the Halva has cooled completely, place a small pot on your stovetop with the sugar, cream of tartar and water and melt the sugar over medium heat. Watch the sugar turn into caramel and as soon as you’ve acheived a deep copper colour, pour it all over your cooled Halva and quickly tilt it around to even distribute the caramel over the entire top. Allow to cool and serve room temperature or chilled. Halvas Farsalon lasts covered in your fridge for up to 3-4 days.

*The town of Farsala is located in central Greece, in the southern part of the province of Thessaly. This mainly agrarian area is concentrated around cotton and livestock farming with some textile industry. The origins of Halvas Farsalon are from the  Near East (Turks) who settled in the mid-1400′s. Although Halvas Farsalon originates from Farsala, once can find this treat at Panigyria (festivals) throughout Greece. Efforts are currently being made to make Halvas Farsalon a PDO product.

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© 2011, Peter Minakis. All rights reserved. If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.ca then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.