In terms of cookbooks, there was little happening on the Greek front, other than practically every wife being given a Tselementes book upon being married. Vefa came around and explored Greek cookery further, gathering recipes from all regions of Greece, releasing booklets specific to the seasons or type of course. Vefa was also the one who first appeared on Greek TV with her cooking segments on a morning show. Her popularity grew when she broke out and hosted her own show dedicated to just cooking.

having a coffee with Vefa Alexiadou

Today, if  you turn-on your TV set in Greece you’ll see a cooking show on every channel (even English food celebs dubbed in Greek) and all these Greek food celebrities in part owe a bit of gratitude to “kuria Vefa” for opening the doors wide for their celebrity. As someone as passionate about Greek as I am, it was an honour to meet Vefa over a coffee last Spring but it was a privilege to be invited back to her summer home in Halkidiki when I returned for my summer vacation.

I traveled south from my family’s summer home on a very hot summer night, kinda’ sticky if I recall. I finally arrived in the town where Vefa’s summer home is but I was a little lost. All one has to do is ask which way to kuria Vefa’s home and EVERYBODY knows where she lives! I found the home, was greeted like a relative who was way overdue for a visit and treated to the infamous Greek philoxenia at “Vefa’s House”!

Sani Beach, Halkidiki

We chatted more about Greece, the Greek food scene, recipes and beautiful Halkidiki. We sat and chatted over a light dinner which ended with a light, refreshing Halva I’d never had before. Halva in Greek cuisine can mean it’s made from sesame paste, from corn starch and the most widely common being the semolina halva. Semolina halva begins by making a syrup, often with spices like cinnamon and clove added with some citrus peel.

The coarse semolina is toasted in either butter or olive oil (the latter used during Lent), nuts are added into the mix and finally the syrup is added to the semolina to form a grainy paste that is place in moulds and inverted on a platter and chilled until serving. What set this Halva apart from others was that the prominent flavour here was lemon and the semolina is just slightly toasted, keeping the colour light (as opposed to the usual beige). On that got day, the Lemon Halva was the perfect light dessert accompanied by a cold glass of water.

Lemons are still in season and this gives you another dessert idea that requires less than 30 minutes preparation. It’s easy, it’s light, the pure lemon flavour with the lightly toasted semolina is only nudged with a pinch of ground cinnamon an a splash of vanilla. The real flavour in lemons (and citrus) is the zest and peel and in Lemon Halva, it really shines. Vefa, you’ve done it again!

Lemon Halva (Halva Lemoniou)

(serves 10)

Syrup

4 – 4 1/2 cups water

2 cups sugar

peel of 2 lemons

fresh grated cinnamon to taste

Halva

1 cup melted unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups coarse semolina

1/2 cup blanched chopped almonds and pine nuts

splash of vanilla

zest of 2 lemons

squeeze of lemon juice to taste

extra chopped nuts for garnish

candied lemon peel for garnish

1. In a medium pot, add the water, sugar and lemon peels and bring to a boil. Reduce to medium and simmer for 5 minutes then remove from the heat. Remove the lemon peels, add your ground cinnamon and reserve. Don’t throw those peels out – thinly slice (julienne) and toss in sugar, pinch of salt and shake off excess then allow to dry on paper towels. Good for a couple of weeks in a sealed container.
2. In a large pot, add your butter or oil over medium heat and once hot, add your semolina and stir with a wooden spoon for about 5-6 minutes or until lightly toasted. Now add the nuts and stir to amalgamate and lightly toast, about 2 more minutes.
3. Now add the reserved syrup, some vanilla extract and stir over medium-low heat until the syrup has been absorbed and the semolina no longer sticks the sides of the pot and doesn’t stick to the spoon.
4. Take off the heat and add the lemon zest, a squeeze of lemon juice (to taste) and place a towel over the pot and place the lid on (prevent a crust from forming). Allow to cool for 10-15 minutes before placing in a large mould (you could use a Bundt pan) or individual serving moulds.
5. Grease the moulds with oil or cooking spray and spoon in the Halva, pressing it in with a spoon. Carefully invert on a plate/platter and you may have tap and slighty bend the mould for the halva to free up. Cover and chill, serve cool to room temperature with a coffee, cold water or a digestif.

*This recipe  and many more Greek desserts can be found in Vefa’s book, Elliniki Kouzina: Zacharoplastiki

Post Footer automatically generated by Add Post Footer Plugin for wordpress.

© 2012, Peter Minakis. All rights reserved. If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.ca then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.

This dessert pairs bananas and chocolate along with a standard semolina custard cream, similar to what’s found in Bougatsa. Last week I made phyllo cups and this week it’s phyllo bundles – look like beggar’s purses. The recipe begins by making the custard and once it cools I add some coarely mashed bananas then form the bundles around the custard and bake until just golden.

The time it takes for the phyllo bundles to become golden in the oven gives me just enough time to make a chocolate sauce with some cinnamon notes to finish this easy and economical dessert. Dust with some icing sugar and drizzle some chocolate sauce over each portion.

Banana Cream Custard Phyllo Bundles

(makes 9)

Banana Cream Filling

4 ripe bananas coarsely mashed

1 stick of unsalted butter

1/2 cup of fine semolina flour

1/4 cup sugar

splash of vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups warm milk

Phyllo Bundles

4 sheets of phyllo pastry (thawed overnight in your fridge)

1/2 stick of unsalted butter

sugar

1/2 cup ground almonds

1 muffin tin

Chocolate Sauce

1/2 cup of chocolate pieces (70% semi-sweet chocolate)

pinch of salt

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

icing sugar for garnish

1. In a deep pot over medium heat, heat 2 Tbsp. of  butter and then add the semolina, sugar and vanilla extract. Cook, stirring for a couple of minutes until the butter’s absorbed and the semolina is golden but not browned.
2. While whisking, add the warm milk in a steady stream until absorbed. Cook while stirring for 3-4 minutes, until the custard has the texture of loose cream of wheat. Remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl and allow to cool then mix in the mashed banana, reserve.
3. Paint the insides of the muffin moulds with melted butter and pre-heat your oven to 325F. Lay a sheet of phyllo on work surface then brush with butter than sprinkle sugar and ground almonds. Repeat with remaining three sheets of phyllo then cut into nine squares (approx. 5″ X 5″).  Pre-heat your oven to 325F (middle rack position).
4. Carefully transfer each square to a muffin mould and with a spoon, place equal amounts of the banana custard into the center of each square and lift the phyllo corners up to the center and twist to close, forming a purse shape with a ruffled top. Brush the tops with any remaining butter and bake for 15-20 minutes or until just golden.
5. In the meantime, place the chocolate chunks, pinch of salt in a medium bow. Now add your cream and cinnamon to a small pot and bring to just scalding over medium heat. Pour the cream over the chocolate and allow the chocolate to melt for a minute then whisk until chocolate has melted into a velvety sauce.
6. When your phyllo bundles are golden and flaky, remove from the oven and allow to cool for five minutes before serving.

*Try making some savory Tyropitakia (Feta cheese phyllo triangles) if you have leftover phyllo

Post Footer automatically generated by Add Post Footer Plugin for wordpress.

© 2012, Peter Minakis. All rights reserved. If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.ca then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.

A festival in Greece may go from one day to a week and since there’s such a large gathering of people, the by-product of a flea market, farmer’s market, rows and rows of stalls with people selling their wares and where there are people – there’s food. Lots of food! Food trucks set up at the Panigyria, restauranteurs rent kiosks and stalls to sell souvlaki, Gyro or whole lamb or pig on the spit, sandwiches, snacks and many types of desserts, sweets and confectionery are offered to lure the adult and child alike.

Halvas Farsalon from a Panigyri

my Halvas Farsalon

One of the treats offered at festivals is called Halvas Farsalon (not to be mixe-up with the other better know halvas). Many of you are familar with the semolina halva and there’s also the “Makedonikos Halvas”, a name given to the halva made traditionally with sesame paste and honey. Halva Farsalon comes from central Greece and originally from the town of Farsala…and this halva is the hallmark of this town. Halvas Farsalon is unique in that it’s made with corn starch (not semolina) and the consistency is of a jelly with a buttery caramel flavour.

Halvas Farsalon is made as such: sugar is added into large rounded pots (with heavy bottoms) over moderate heat with the purpose of forming a deep copper-coloured caramel. Waiting in the wings is a mixture of more sugar, corn starch and water that’s added into the pot as soon as the caramel has formed in the pot. Constant stirring then ensues and slowly the caramel melts away into the corn starch then the liquid begins to thicken and that caramel that you watched over with patience has come back to life and a dense, transparent caramel jelly has formed. At this point toasted almonds are added along with melted clarified butter (in increments) while stirring some more.

As soon as the butter has been absorbed and the halva no longer sticks to the sides, the treat is almost complete. The halva is left in the pot for a few moments to allow a crust to form on the bottom. Then, the halva is flipped/inverted so that the caramel-crusted bottom is on top and now the Halvas Farsalon is emptied onto a large round tray and allowed to cool. A sprinkle of cinnamon tops the Halvas Farsalon and it ready to be eaten – room temperature or chilled in the fridge.

This is very easy to dish to prepare at home until you get to the stage of creating that crust on top. One needs one of the large pots as shown in the above video and some practice flipping this large portion of Halva. At home, you have options: simply skip making the crust or be creative and use another method to make the crust. For me, the crust is a ‘must”. Once the Halva has cooled completely, you can sprinkle some sugar on top and either torch or brulee the top or place under your broiler in the oven until just brown on top. There’s another method to create that caramel top and you’ll find my suggestion at the end of this recipe!

Halvas Farsalon (Χαλβάς Φαρσάλων)

an 11-inch round metal pan (2 inched deep)

3 cups sugar

2 cups corn starch

1 tsp. vanilla extract

2/3 cup melted clarified butter (unsalted)

1/2 cup blanched almonds, halved and lightly toasted

ground cinnamon for finishing

Caramel Crust

1/2 cup sugar

1/8 tsp. cream of tartar

2-3 Tbsp. water

1. Mix 2 cups of sugar with cornstarch and vanilla and pour in 5 cups of water and mix until blended.
2. Add remaining 1 cup sugar into heavy-bottomed pot and stir continuously until a dark gold/copper colour is attained. Remove from the heat and pour the corn starch/sugar/water slurry into the pan.
3. Return to stovetop and stir over medium heat until mixture is thick and comes away from sides of pan.
4. Add almonds and some of the butter and stir and then add the rest of the butter (stirring) until once again absorbed. Empty the Halvas into the pan and level the top with wooden spoon. Allow to cool completely.
5. Once  the Halva has cooled completely, place a small pot on your stovetop with the sugar, cream of tartar and water and melt the sugar over medium heat. Watch the sugar turn into caramel and as soon as you’ve acheived a deep copper colour, pour it all over your cooled Halva and quickly tilt it around to even distribute the caramel over the entire top. Allow to cool and serve room temperature or chilled. Halvas Farsalon lasts covered in your fridge for up to 3-4 days.

*The town of Farsala is located in central Greece, in the southern part of the province of Thessaly. This mainly agrarian area is concentrated around cotton and livestock farming with some textile industry. The origins of Halvas Farsalon are from the  Near East (Turks) who settled in the mid-1400′s. Although Halvas Farsalon originates from Farsala, once can find this treat at Panigyria (festivals) throughout Greece. Efforts are currently being made to make Halvas Farsalon a PDO product.

Post Footer automatically generated by Add Post Footer Plugin for wordpress.

© 2011, Peter Minakis. All rights reserved. If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.ca then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.

As always, I stayed at my family’s summer home in Halkidiki (near Thessaloniki) where I swim twice a day, tan until I resemble a gypsy, spend time with my parents, relatives and friends I’ve known since the 80′s! There were the day trips to Thessaloniki, some trips to more exotic beaches in Halkdiki and taverna-hopping at night.

Lefkada

I traveled to the island of Lefkada for the first time – an island that doesn’t require a ferry boat to travel to – just a causeway that connects it to the mainland. Lefkada is an island rife with greenery, olives trees. One side of the island is relatively flat and most of the hotels are located facing mainland Greece and the center of the island is mountainous. A car is needed on Lefkada as most of the island’s popular and beautiful beaches are included on the side of the island facing Italy ( on the Ionian Sea). Some of Greece’s best beaches are on Lefkada and Egremni and Porto Katsiki often get mentioned in “best beaches” lists.

Porto Katsiki, Lefkada

I also attended a Greek wedding (yes it was BIG and FAT) and even reconnected with a former Greek amabassador to Canada who now spends his retirement in a nearby town in Halkidiki. While in Halkidiki I also traveled to the third peninsula to explore and taste the underappreciated Mount Athos area. Most of the third peninsula is enclosed by a border and home to several Greek-Orthodox monasteries. One can only travel to Ouranoupoli and from there one must enter only if carrying a visa (pre-arranged) into Agio Oros…the name for the entire territory governed by monks and clergy. Sorry, no women are allowed on Agio Oros but crusies are available from Ouranoupoli that tour along the coast.

My weekend in the Athos area was spent in Arnaia with it’s well-preserved old architecture, a couple of wineries, a Feta cheese facility, the tiny islet of Amouliani and to visit a lady who “opens” her own phyllo and made two delicious phyllo pies right before our eyes!

I also wanted to visit Constantinople (Istanbul) once again this year but days were running out and schedules with my travel partner and friend made this an impossibility this year (there’s always next year). Instead, I took the advice of friends to head towards the Greek/Turkish border to visit the city of Xanthi. I went during the city’s Old City Festival to revel with others in this picturesque old town with both Greeks and Muslim minority living side by side peacefully. Xanthi is known for its extraordinary desserts and exotic dishes with a near-east flare. Xanthi’s “pazari” is Greece’s largest and I was fortunate to shop there on the Saturday morning I was there.

Upon my return to our summer home in Halkidiki (where our Greek home is) I was hoping for some milder daytime temps to arrive but not to be so. This September was one of the hottest I remember with the thermometer hitting 36C – more beach action! September is a wonderful month to visit Greece and airfares have dropped, the summer crowds have left and the days are sill hot for a pleasant swim in the sea followed by comfortable warm evenings taking a stroll and dining outdoors at a taverna.

I spent some days (and nights) exploring more of my favourite city in Greece – Thessaloniki. Thessaloniki iss Greece’s 2nd largest city and Greek’s often call it the “co-capital” alongside Athens. Thessaloniki’s history sees many people come and go: Turks, Romans, Byzantines, Slavs. The city was also home to a significant Jewish population and one can even visit a museum dedicated to this important facet of Thessaloniiki.

White Tower, Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki is one Europe’s oldest cities and it’s also considered one of the earliest examples of a multicultural city. Today, the majority of Thessaloniki’s population in Greek but the population is made up of natives of the province of Macedonia, Vlachs, Asian Minor Greeks forced to leave Turkey in a series of population exchanges and Pontian Greeks who (not to be confused with Asia Minor Greeks) came back to resettle in Greece after many generations of living around the Black Sea.

The Pontian Greeks have their own dialect, they are a tight-knit community and they have there very own unique cuisine. Pontian Greeks can be found in Athens as well but the majority live in Thessaloniki and towns in Macedonia and Thrace. Some Greek towns and villages were born with the influx of Pontian Greeks who came to resettle on the Greek mainland.

Back in Xanthi, my friend (and chef) Stella Spanou was kind enough to show around the area and on one afternoon I spent at a “Ksenona” or rural hostel just outside of Xanthi. Situated in an old abandoned Turkish village was this family-run type of “bed & breakfast” by a family of Pontian roots. Stella and Eleni prepared dinner, we ate and drank and delightfully (first time in awhile) did not speak of or discuss the Greek economy. We spoke about the wine harvest that I just witness, the region of Xanthi and the delicious food before us. Two of Eleni’s brothers took turns playing the Pontiako Lyra (a kind of viol) played upright and help between one’s thighs after our meal. It was a moving moment with their father keeping rhythm by clapping and everyone reflecting on how wonderful a day we just had.

View from rural hostel near Xanthi

One of the dishes at the table was of Pontian origin and I’m going to share that dish with you in the coming days but in the meantime, I thought to share another Pontian dish, a sweet one that embodies my sweet Greek vacation and all the memories of the wonderful food enjoyed with old friends and new. We’re now into Autumn and many of this summer’s fruits are a memory and we await for the long winter to pass and another cycle of Spring and Summer will warm our souls and fill us with more memories.

The Pontians have a dish called Hosafi which is a compote made of mixed dried fruit and often some nuts are included in the mix. The ladies of the household with gather fruit as they came into season and dried them for consumption in the winter. Turning dried fruits into a compote is simple genius born out of necessity and ideal as a Lent-friend dessert. I couldn’t think of a more ideal recipe to offer than one with fruits preserved from the warm months and used to tide us through the winter. A compote is usually made with fresh, ripe fruit and preserved in a syrup but here, the main ingredients are dried fruit.

The dried fruits are re-hydrated in warm water then simmered in a simple syrup of water and sugar and spices of your choice. I decided to go with star anise, reminiscent of a compote I ate earlier in my vacation while on Lefkada. This is a really easy recipe using dried figs, apricots, prunes, raisins and almonds. There’s water, there’s sugar and star anise and what the heck…some Greek honey to add some richness to the syrup.

Hosafi is wonderful served on some strained Greek yogurt or ice cream or simply on its own. I make a small batch as we’re using dried fruits which are available all year ’round – no need to make large batches here. Make a batch, store in a container and keep in your fridge.

Hosafi (Χοσάφι)  – Compote of Dried Fruit

(makes enough to fill 2 large jars)

1/2 cup of dried apricots

1/2 cup dried figs

1/4 cup sultana raisins

1/4 cup dark raisins

1/2 cup pitted prunes

1/2 cup almonds

water

approx. 1 cup sugar

3-4 whole star anise

1/4 cup Greek honey

1. Place all the dried fruit in a bowl and cover with hot water. Place a cover on the bowl and allow the fruit to rehydrate for about an hour. Pour the water and dried fruit into a medium-sized pot and if need be, add more water ( to cover by an inch). Add the sugar and star anise and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally.
2. Once almost aboil, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for an hour. Add the honey, stir in and take off the heat and allow to cool. You maty add the almonds while the compote is still warm.
3. Pour the compote into a jar/glass container and keep in your fridge for up to 3 months. Serve on some strained Greek yogurt or ice cream.

Post Footer automatically generated by Add Post Footer Plugin for wordpress.

© 2011, Peter Minakis. All rights reserved. If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.ca then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.

The peaches here in southern Ontario are now in season and although they are palm-sized, they are juicy, very aromatic and full of flavour. I remember enjoying peaches from my family’s peach tree as a child and I also have fond memories of peaches in Greece. The first time I visited Greece was in 1974 and I was in awe of the Greek peaches that were the size of grapefruit! Not only were they big but they were also sweet, juicy and delicious!

Many of the peaches grown in Greece come from northern Greece, cultivated in the fertile lowlands near Veria, Naoussa and Giannitsa. This area also is known for producing some of Greece’s best wines (sharing another characteristic with Niagara). I will be visiting Greece in about a week and I look forward to the ripe, juicy peaches and some of the wonderful peach preserves and marmalade that’s also made.

I’m also going to look forward to making some of these Peach Ice Cream Pops for family & friends. The ice cream base contains no custard (no eggs) and it simply relies on ripe peaches, Greek yogurt, some peach nectar and some flavour accents. There’s some Greek honey, vanilla, fresh grated ginger and condensed milk for sweetness.

This ice cream mixture can be prepared with just your food processor or blender and although I recommend still using an ice cream maker to finish the recipe – you could still pull-off these cute, refreshing and ever-tasty Peach Ice Cream Pops.

Peach Ice Cream Pops

(makes 16)

3 large very ripe peaches, peeled & pitted, roughly chopped

1 cup full-fat cream

1 tsp. vanilla extract

1 cup peach nectar

1 cup strained Greek yogurt

1 can of condensed milk (300ml)

3 tsp. of peach schnapps

2 Tbsp. grated fresh ginger

1 very ripe peach, peeled & pitted, fine dice

3 Tbsp. honey

16 small paper cups

approx. 1 cup ground almonds

16 lollypop or ice cream sticks

1. Add your chopped peaches into a food processor or blender along with the vanilla, peach nectar, cream and blend. Now add the yogurt, condensed milk, peach schnapps and ginger and process again until well blended. Cover and chill in your fridge for 2 to 3 hours.
2. Ensure the ice cream maker’s ice bowl is pre-frozen before operating your ice cream maker. Pour your ice cream base in the ice cream maker and operate for 20 minutes.
3. In the meantime, dice the reserved peach and add the honey and toss. At the 20 minutes mark of churning your ice cream, add the diced peaches and churn until they are blended in (couple of minutes). Place about a tablespoon of ground almonds into each cup and then pour the ice cream mixture into each cup. Place the sticks into each cup and set on a tray and refrigerate overnight to set. If you do not have an ice cream machine, Simply pour ice cream mixture into the cups and freeze for 90 minute, when the mixture should be frozen enough for the sticks to stand on their own. Place back in the freezer overnight.
4. Serve frozen and instruct your guests to simply peel away the paper cup to eat the ice cream pops.

*Note: The addition of alcohol in ice creams is usually to help keep the mixture soft when frozen.

Post Footer automatically generated by Add Post Footer Plugin for wordpress.

© 2011, Peter Minakis. All rights reserved. If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.ca then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.